Heart of the Philippines, The Island of Marinduque

Last April, i left the comforts of my dear home and off to an island south of Manila. It was so unfamiliar to the people i know, everyone's asking what the hell am i doing going to this place? I always answer with a smile, i yet have to find it out for myself. 

For the past two years i have been busy planning on trips around Asia. As seen in this blog my fascination for Thailand. I love the country so much i've been back three times in a year just going back to busy Bangkok and frolicking' in the white beaches of the South. Because of this, i was getting more and more unfamiliar with my country which didn't feel good at all. So i decided from now on, I'll be back to what i started three years ago... exploring my great nation. I wasn't expecting anything at all, i was just going to see the place for myself first and see what's shaking that side of the Philippines. 

The night before i left, my dad asked me where i was going. To sorta give him a more safe answer i say just near Quezon. But to be honest, it is maybe four hours by boat to this island province called Marinduque. A few hours later, he found out where i was heading. He told me he was there before, he was with my my grandfather who used to perform with his orchestra in the town plaza. After a brief talk, i continued doing my work. You see right before this trip, i sorta have been doing freelance work for an advertising company and i needed to submit a couple of articles for content. 

A few hours before i left, i was still halfway my work but i manage to pull off work for a bit and decided to continue the rest of the remaining articles in Marinduque. With no sleep at all, i took a shower and started to pack my things. I was going for ultra light packing. No unnecessary stuff, just a few clothing, some beach gear and tons of confidence braving this province for the first time. No amount of delays and irresponsibility can sway my mind to going. I am going to brave this province no matter what it takes.

The first time i told some people about this trip to Marinduque, they gave me a sorta weird look. Good thing, my instincts were right. This trip would be so memorable because it paved the way for things to happen long over due. Not only did this destination proved one fact that indeed the Philippines is so beautiful and this province is such a magnificent discovery. The other, i really have to travel on my own.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Marinduque, except maybe Bellaroca which is also called "Elephant Island" i will give you a sort of 101 on Marinduque, this is the map of the province. I did a little bit of research about it and here's what i found.

Marinduque is an island province of the Philippines located in the MIMAROPA region in Luzon. Its capital is Boac. Marinduque lies between Tayabas Bay to the north and Sibuyan Sea to the south. It is located south and west of Quezon, east of Mindoro, and north of Romblon.

Marinduque is a heart-shaped island between Tayabas Bay in the north and Sibuyan Sea to the south. It is separated from the Bondoc Peninsula in Quezon by the Mompog Pass. Some of the smaller islands to the northeast are Maniuayan Island, Santa Cruz Island, and Mompog Island. The highest peak in Marinduque is Mt. Malindig (formerly, Mt. Marlanga), a potentially active volcano with an elevation of 1157 meters.

The island has two major seasons—the dry season (November through February) and the rainy season (June through October), with a transitional period in between.^[3]

Text info source from here

Marinduque is a tiny little heart-shaped like province off the coast of Quezon. This island province is sometimes called the "heart of the philippines" because of its location in the middle of the country. Marinduque is a very poor province, with mostly coconuts and fishing in the coastal town as means of livelihood. Relatively during the holy week is when the province gains its most number of tourists, the rest of the year its a sleepy quiet province. So the chances of you bumping into a traveler in this side of the country is very slim, unless of course they are headed to the luxury island of Bellaroca formerly known as Elephant Island. 

When i went to Marinduque it was the holy week and during this time people flock this island province for the infamous Lenten ceremony of "Moriones"-- more on this later. Most of the people i saw traveling were natives of Marinduque who are now living in Manila working, some are just tourists visiting the province for the festival others like me are just nomads waiting where the tides will take them. To be honest i didn't go to Marinduque for that, heck i could go any other day or month. Before this trip was planned, i was looking at my map asking myself where i want to go next. I had a few suggested destinations from Catanduanes to Ilocos Norte to even Romblon. But due to the limited time and budget, i decided i have to go to Marinduque. Its the fastest destination to/from Manila.

How to go Marinduque

Basically three ways to go to Marinduque from Manila.

If your willing to splurge: You can fly direct from Manila to Marinduque via the airport located in between Gasan and Boac, Zest Air flies this route. I also found out Seair flies direct from Manila to Sta. Cruz on scheduled dates. The trip will roughly cost you less than $100 round trip.

There's no middle class, its either you're flying which is what the rich people do or you're doing cheap which is bus-boat/ferry combination. 

If you're a cheapo: You ride a bus (Jam Liner, Jac Liner, etc) from Manila to Dalahican Ferry port in Quezon. The trip is about less than P200 or $4 and will take you to a fair enough good ride of about four hours. There a few stops along the way getting more passenger. From there, you catch a ferry which will course the sea for about four hours or the fast ferry about half that time. Some of the popular ferry boats are White Horse and Montenegro Shipping lines. 

During the holy week when i was there, imagine chaos rockin' at the ferry port of Dalahican. Everyone wanted to get on board to head to Marinduque but the boats are always full of passengers already. When i arrived, some people were waiting as chance passengers since last night. The line was very long and disorderly. The ticket booths weren't closed. The sun was so hot. This is one problem posing Marinduque Tourism. 

Pinoy Boy asks???

With about three or four dubious ferries traveling from Quezon to Marinduque on random hours. How in the world will tourists, travelers, everyone go there during this time of the year? Locals say when its not holy week, there's also an awful chance of catching another ferry when one leaves because no one goes to Marinduque then. 

I really want to address the Marinduque officials regarding this. There's such a lot of waste because of this mismanagement. Oh well. If you can brave it, go for it man! That's what i did.

When i arrived in Dalahican port which was roughly four hours bus ride from Quezon City, i found out how hard it was to buy a ticket bound for Marinduque. Another problem posed is as much as i want to be responsible and book everything ahead, you can't do it going to Marinduque. Unlike in Thailand where everything is bookable and possible regardless of anything, in here where you want to go you have to book yourself. I wanted to buy the bus ticket ahead of time. No. There are frequent buses to and from Quezon anyway which is quite good actually. I tried calling up Tourism board of Marinduque if i could book a ferry going to Boac. No. Ain't possible. What? 

So needless to say, traveling to Marinduque during holy week is all about Luck. Its either you have it or you don't. 

I don't want to write more and more about the inconvenience of going to this province. Let's just say i wanted to write the ugly part first before going to the best parts of this trip. If you think going to Marinduque during holy week was a pain in the butt. Wait when you're about to go back home. My God, this is the real deal Senakulo. I arrived at ferry port of Balanacan at around 6am and this is the line. I didn't leave Marinduque till tuesday the week after holy week. I was hoping everyone left already sunday or monday because there's work on a monday. Its either we were all thinking the same thing or there's just too many people visiting the island. Or worse, i'm in such a bad luck.

There is a very big problem with the order here. Some of the characters i met at the ticket booth, coast guard were a little bit shady. I mean, its dubious enough that one man will buy 40 fuckin tickets so imagine what's left for those in line. Worse, they won't tell you the tickets are almost sold out. So you've been falling in line for about two hours and then suddenly you will miss the ferry ride because there ain't anymore tickets. What a bummer.

There's a little spectacle though to the calmness of the people here, apart from the lady who got hysterical. Bet she's not from Marinduque. Everyone was calm, keeping their heads cool. Smiling. Although it was scorching outside, everyone seemed to learn how to talk in a nice way. I mean what's the worse thing that could happen, miss a ferry ride? Take it easy.

If that's not enough, wait there's more. So on my way back i finally got to buy a ticket. Tired and obviously perspiring like there's no more tomorrow by the midday sun, i decided to cool off in the lounge area before the ferry arrives. I fell a sleep for a bit lying down in a not so clean floor. I didn't care i was just so tired. When i woke up about a few minutes before the scheduled arrival of my ferry so i started searching where the ferry will dock so i can just wait for it and get on the boat as soon as possible. 

Lo

and 

Behold...

The Ferry left. ALREADY! 

What???????

Apparently, schedules are just a suggestion here. Because there's too many people and a few ferries arriving. Even if you're scheduled for a later trip you can ride already. First come first serve basis.

And What's worse no one will tell when the ferry arrives or when the ferry will leave. I was just joking... why are the people in the ferry terminal keeping a secret from me? LoL

I don't want to put all the blame on the transportation system of Marinduque. I may have been a little relaxed planning this trip. But mishaps happen like non-stop. 

On the other hand sometimes the shady transportation in Marinduque worked to my advantage. On my way to Marinduque, i didn't anymore fall in line after a few hours of waiting for nothing. Just a stroke of luck, a man i approached told me i can get in without buying the ticket I just need to buy terminal fee so i can get in. And so i did just that. He carried my duffel bag. Saw his id so i bet my belongings safe with him. I hurriedly followed him trying to get as little attention as possible and proceeded riding the ferry. Before the ferry left, i gave him a tip. He said i just have to pay the ticket to the men in uniform after everyone's settled and as the ferry is leaving. I paid for about P200 for the ferry ride no hassle at all. There wasn't anymore ferry leaving bound for Boac but there's one bound for Sta. Cruz. So i knew i needed to take this ferry or i will be stuck in Dalahican ferry port.

The photo was taken on my way back to Dalahican Port in Quezon. But a similar picture is the case when you're leaving the ferry. Madness and Chaos. Everyone wanted to go down the soonest possible time no matter what it takes. 

During holy week, this island gets its dose of chaos and madness. With very poor planning by the government of Marinduque and obviously lack of transportation essentials to promote tourism in the province, i don't think this province will get its much needed to boost for promotion anytime soon. Let's be practical. When not a lot of people go to a destination, everything remains intact. And sometimes i think about it, and it might just be the real reason why this island province fairly is still untouched by the commercialism of the city. I guess only the real adventurous and the patient ones do go back home with the most unbelievable beautiful story only in Marinduque they shall experience.

One can also find the best beach in the whole of Marinduque right in the town of Torrijos. Welcome to Poctoy beach!

For more information:

Radyo Marinduque

Office of the Governor

Tel. No 042-332-1002

           042-332-1266

Fax. No 042-332-1520

Department of Trade and Industry

Tel. No. 042-332-1375

Provincial Tourism Office

Te. No. 042-332-1498

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Boac Mayor's Office

Tel. No. 042-332-3131

Sta. Cruz Mayor's Office

Tel. No. 042-321-1276

Mogpog Mayor's Office

Tel. No. 042-332-3131

Torrijos MPDC Office

Cel. No. 0208636097

Buenavista MPDC Office

Cel. No. 09282146343

Gasan Mayor's Office

Tel. No. 042-342-1074

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