I’ve been to many places outside Kathmandu but i haven’t been to Budhanilkantha. It seems this trip is all about visiting places i haven’t been to before. I read in my horoscope before to finally get out of my shell and start discovering new places again. I baby myself to go to the same places that are in my comfort zone. I didn’t plan it this way but i feel like ticking off the list of every Nepali tourist place there is. And thankfully, i’ve been blessed to have been to a lot of places. If you get to read this, feel free to browse through my travel notes section of Nepal. There’s a lot. And because i am simply staying in and around Kathmandu, i have plenty of time to soak in the senses and just relax in every place i go to.

This place reminds me so much of Dakshinkali, 22KM from Kathmandu, and it’s infamous Hindi God Kali sleeping in a reclining position in a water shed. As always, non-Hindu and non-Buddhists aren’t allowed to go inside and see Lord Mahavishnu, as they should be out of respect. People are taking off their shoes, worshipping and praying, coming out of the place blessed. I sat down in one of the benches trying to remember every butter candle, every lotus, the kids studying to be monks, and occasional besties chatting and taking photos. There was not a single tourist in sight in this place. I reckon everyone’s in Pokhara now.

I realized how it would really be nice to be able to speak actual Nepali and have a long conversation, and not the usual Jerik Gurung. If i really want to formalize the once a year visit to Nepal in January, then i have to widen my vocabulary. I get a couple of stares because i look like everyone else but i take photos like a tourist, and i sound so different. Also, i wasn’t able to go inside the sleeping Hindu God Mahavishnu water tank. Later on, i discovered that it’s actually the largest stone carving in Nepal at 5 meters.

I don’t know if there’s a ticket to get inside Budhanilkantha, but i wasn’t asked. Later on, even in Boudhanath and Kathmandu Durbar Square. This has always been status quo. And Nepal understands. I hope so.

The ride going there was bad as expected but what made it a whole lot worse is the fact that it has become more dusty times ten. With no air condition on, i still had to close the windows because the air has become too dusty. Pollution has become a lingering problem eversince i arrived. And yet, Bangkok has worse pollution. And i’m going there after Kathmandu.

I want to know what Nepal is doing to eradicate this huge of a problem. Pollution is really Nepal’s biggest problem. And 10 years have passed, and it has become worse. How about 10 years from now? In Sagarmatha, we trust. 

What a terrible waste of time, energy and Nepalese Rupees today is. I’ve been reading my Lonely Planet Nepal travel guide, and on the edge of Shivapuri National Park is the now popular Kopan Monastery. Looks interesting plus i haven’t been here. There are only a handful of tourist places now in the Kathmandu Valley that i haven’t visited, and Kopan is one of them. As part of my rented car from Budanalikantha, me and my driver Yogi Gautam mazed our way to Kopan. The ride was long and zig zag going up, snaking our way to one of the worst road condition i have ever experienced in my lifetime. It didn’t help that we’re riding a beat up, worn down White Tata Express. Terrible! As soon as i arrived at the gate, the security officer asked if i had a booking. Of course, not. What the hell?! Who books for a tourist spot ahead of time to take photos and visit the exterior of the place? This is a first. The driver talked to him, begging for us to just come in for a few minutes to take photos and maybe walk around for a bit. Mind you, the ride going there wasn’t short. And in its maze like path, you become dizzy. Sadly, he said no. And he left us - bored and nonchalant. Like nothing and without any consideration. I was shooed away from a Buddhist Monastery - the irony of it all. I think, this is the first time i experienced something like this in Nepal. Why the heck would Lonely Planet put Kopan Monastery in their guidebook and not put a reminder to book before going there. I get that maybe they’re quite strict with the visitors, but hey i don’t even have to go inside. I just need to make sure that i didn’t go all the way there for nothing. A photo or two wouldn’t hurt. I left the place, confused but as in my previous blog — reminder to always have a back up plan. Things don’t always go how we envisioned them to be. That is a way of life.

The driver must have felt my disappointment. But i wasn’t taking it too seriously - just calm and collected and ready to move on. In true Jerik fashion, i just kept quiet like i always do. Meanwhile, my driver kept on stopping by every temple he sees so i could take photos. It’s not his fault really but i can sense the Nepali pride in him. He would do his best to make up for the disappointing Kopan Monastery. This kind gesture is very much appreciated and one of the reasons why Nepali people are very close to my heart.

I just started reading a book called Simple Living by Shunmyo Masuno and its 100 daily practices for Zen Buddhism. I am pretty sure this debacle is one of them.

I’ve arranged 2,000 Nepalese Rupees earlier via in Drive to take me to 3 places with waiting time im between — Budhanalikantha, Kopan Monastery & Boudhanath. I’ve researched the route and which place to go first. This is the best route possible one can take yet only to be disappointed with Kopan Monastery. 

On my way to Boudhanath, we stopped at this view point, one where no guidebook has ever written before, where one could see the whole Kathmandu City from a great vantage point. I took photos of the driver, and he took mine. In true Nepali fashion, mine wasn’t so good. I laughed it all out. Because today I realized - sometimes it’s not even the photos that matter. One can have the best photo with no meaning. I, on the other hand, had a not so good photo but with memories of failed Kopan Monastery. A selfie with Yogi Gautam would suffice. All is good in this 8 degrees weather as i type my experiences yesterday. 

On my first day here in Nepal, i took things slow. Walking around the same path as before was simply magical. You really have to be here to experience it. I am pertaining to the the lingering smell of incense, masala being cooked and just the musky afternoons  (minus the pollution) were all spectacular, and stellar to me.

I chanced upon this shop Root Nepal Handicraft and looked around for incense sticks. I have been big on it since late last year. I light up mornings and afternoon. And i fancy buying here in Nepal would be a good idea. It’s called a Zodiac Incense and it only costed me 300 rupees for 16 sticks that’ll burn for 45 minutes each. I actually didn’t bother to check if that’s the right price, because in itself it’s already a very cheap price. 

I also checked out other shops in the main shopping area until i got hungry. Initially, i was looking for fried rices but weirdly couldn’t find one. I checked the menu at this fancy place called Third Eye and ordered stuffed chicken breast with mashed potatoes and vegetables - it’s actually quite good although not very Nepali. The ambiance is also nice with a little fireplace in the courtyard to keep diners alfresco some warmth. The staff are pretty good to, and all weirded out by this Nepali looking dude who’s no Nepali. Ha ha I also ordered a small pot of masala tea which i drank to the last drop. Never a day, without a small pot or two. Because the tea is usually served without sugar, you fix your own. I’ve prepared for this before arriving and bought with me zero sugar stevia. 

And since i wanted more incense sticks, the walk lead me back to the same shop. This time, i bought Heart Chakra Incense for 150 rupees and an Ohm incense stick holder. 

There are so many more shops that i should check out but Kathmandu and the Thamel area dies down after dinner so i have to reschedule. Surprisingly for a polarizing city, Kathmandu is very solemn at night. I headed back to the room which is called a Queen Heritage Suite Room 107, and unpacked and nested. At 12MN, i was dozing off already. Here in Nepal, i sleep early and wake up early - the kind of habit i want to continue. 

Global Warming is for real!!! After two visits in Nepal in the past, during the same month, i reckon i already know the max and minimum temperature of Kathmandu but boy i was wrong. Back in 2014 and 2015, temperatures in Kathmandu have been consistently chilly from day to night, and gets really really cold at dawn. That’s it. I’ve memorized it already. 10 years later, temperatures now are as high as 18 to 20 degrees Celsius at noon, and now as i type this in my suite here in Jyatha, it’s already 11 and will get lower at 8 degrees later. The gap is so wide, i was so confused what to bring - a puffer or fleece.

Thankfully, i brought with me an extra warm heat tech and a fleece and now warming up in my bed. P.S. Accuweather has failed me again. It says warmer than actual temperature. Wrong! Wrong! It’s becoming brutally cold at night. 

What a day it has been. What a blessed day  it has been, to see the Himalayas and Sagarmatha from the window seat of the plane. Because i got the best seat in the house at 3F, this American mom asked if i could airdrop a couple of photos so she could show it to her sons who’re all eager to see Everest. A lot of people say go to Nepal during autumn. I say, winter really is so underrated and there’s not a lot of tourists.

Suddenly, my fear of flying was non existent. I skipped watching my second movie on my iPad mini because i was already too busy looking at the window. My focus was on the great majestic mountain ranges. Zeroed in on that. I’m literally flying over the roof of the world. What an experience! In the two previous ocassions that i flew to Kathmandu, i don’t remember having this view. It’s a very rewarding and touching feeling — another core memory. 

Arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport, i noticed a lot of differences since i embarked 10 years ago. The security, for one, got well… stricter. I don’t remember having to submit to checking your cabin luggage before you pick up your checkin luggage. Does that make sense? Forgive me for it has been half a decade since i last made a blog entry. Anyway, this is after the immigration check. But for security or safety reasons, i have no objection. The Visa on Arrival payment line is so long considering almost all of foreigners will have to pay VOA.  So you can imagine the number of people falling in line. More payment counters, perhaps? 

The immigration is always long in any country (depending on the arrival time) so i have no comment on this one. 

The ATM, as expected, wasn’t working to get me some Nepalese Rupees. I’ll try to find a Nabil Bank (The Green One) ‘coz i used it the last time. Good thing i bought US Dollars with me. Because you always need to have a back up plan for everything — the cardinal rule of traveling. ATM’s aren’t always 100% functional. Fact. 

The hotel where i am staying at provided a free pick up service. I assume the driver has been waiting for more than an hour because it takes a really long time upon arrival until you finally leave the airport. 

The ride from the airport to the hotel was a breeze. I tried to open the windows halfway to get a sense and sight and the smell of the city i have missed the most. 15 minutes later, the driver asked me to close the window. Too much dust, he said. I agree. 

Oh, Kathmandu i have missed you so much. The ride took me to see new places before i got to Thamel — Hilton & Marriott, a new mall and a rave club. Sadly, the roads are still in very bad condition. Just like before. And you have to move constantly because there’s no lane for pedestrians. This means you walk where the car passes through. Even the road leading to my hotel, Swarga Heritage, was in an unbelievably horrible condition. I am still trying to figure out if indeed the hotel has a good location or not. Mind you, Swarga Heritage Hotel is #3 on TripAdvisor in the whole of Kathmandu. After re-familiarizing myself again around the Thamel area, i guess i can say it’s not so bad. Hotel’s location is actually in Jyatha - an up and coming district of Kathmandu where you are near Thamel but minus the hustle and bustle. I can’t wait to eat breakfast tomorrow so i can make a final review. Have a pot of masala tea and freshly cooked omelet. Oh and by the way, the hotel serves breakfast until 3PM — the only hotel to do so in the city.

It’s only barely 2 months since my last travel, yet it feels like a lifetime. I am so used to traveling every month that one missed month of travel and I feel like a newbie. The flight from Manila to Don Mueang was late for about an hour. Good thing my connecting flight doesn’t leave until the next day at noon. Don Mueang is an old airport, albeit it looks like I was transported back to the 80s. Everything looks older. The only positive thing is that the line towards the immigration is a lot shorter. In no time, I was ready to leave. But first, 7-11. So good to finally buy my usual favorites - Spinach & Cheese Sandwich & Green Tea Genmai. I hoard this drink and take it home with me back in Manila.

It’s only about 10 minutes to get to my airport hotel. I paid P162 Baht via Grab and arrived and checked in at Moji Hotel in a breeze. My stay doesn’t come with a breakfast. Good thing, I bought a Ham Sandwich & Banana for breakfast. I am such a light breakfast eater. That’s why it’s impractical for me to avail of a buffet breakfast in any hotel.

I booked my accommodation via Agoda. Now that I think about it, the room isn’t at par with what I paid for. There are visible signs of use, scratches on the floor, paint chipping, and bed sheets that looked like they’ve been used overtime. I don’t know if it’s the location, but there were mosquitoes in the room. Would I stay again at Moji? Probably not. After long years of travel, I’ve become more choosy with where I stay. Gone are the days of me staying in hostels and dodgy guesthouses. And room size has now become a top priority. My last draw was in Hanoi. Will share this story in another post. 

I woke up at around 7 a.m., and prepared myself my breakfast. I am not worried about leaving late because it only takes 10 minutes to get to Terminal 1, and I availed of an AirAsia Fast Pass. It enables me to have a separate check-in counter, ideally a priority over the immigration, etc. I just hope Cebu Pacific will have something like this in the future. I’ll purchase this again next time I fly AirAsia. And looking at the signboard - Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Siem Reap caught my eye. I’ve always wanted to fly there bound for Kashmir. Let’s see. I think I am ready to come back to India for the third time.

I am writing this blog on board my flight. In less than an hour, hopefully, the view of the Himalayas will appear on my window seat. I specifically purchased a seat 3F so I have a view of the mountains, if it’s not too cloudy. In the meantime, I am finishing the movie Solo Con Tu Parejas directed by Alfonso Cuarón, back in the day. Yesterday, I watched Yolo, a Chinese film, and it was great. I can’t believe the lead actress didn’t use any prosthetics. It took 3 years to film because the lead actress started as overweight, and after a diet and intense workout regimen which included boxing, she lost 50 kilos. Wow! So inspiring!

I’ll be more focused with my Muay Thai training once I get back to Manila. My main goal has never been to lose weight but to exercise my heart. It’s a bonus if I become thinner, though.