PINOY BOY JOURNALS: nepal

Showing posts with label nepal. Show all posts

An old charismatic man poses for the camera in Bungamati

I know it has not been easy. I try to imagine how it feels to lose everything you posses - the house you've lovingly made into a home, the farm you've tended for so long, and the people you've loved all of your life.

The past few weeks are bad dreams for all of you, i know. Losing everything you have will make you feel sad. And sometimes you will ask God why make you suffer through all of these hardships. These are normal reactions, most especially, since you've been through so much in very little time.

I cannot imagine myself in your shoes for i cannot imagine the day i lose something really important to me. I will also regret the day that it will come.

म यो सजिलो छैन थाह छ। म यो तपाईं posses सबै गुमाउन महसुस कसरी कल्पना गर्न प्रयास - तपाईं मायालु एक घर मा गर्नुभयो घर, तपाईं त लामो समय को लागि tended गर्नुभएको खेत, र मानिसहरूले तपाईं आफ्नो जीवन को सबै प्रेम गर्नुभयो।

पछिल्लो केही सप्ताह तपाईं को लागि खराब सपना हो, मलाई थाहा छ। तपाईं सबै खोने तपाईं दुःखी महसुस गर्नेछन्। तपाईं यी कठिनाइ सबै माध्यम ग्रस्त किन बनाउन र कहिलेकाहीं तपाईं परमेश्वरको सोध्न हुनेछ। तपाईं धेरै साना समय मा धेरै माध्यम भएको छु देखि यी अधिकांश विशेष गरी, सामान्य प्रतिक्रिया हो।

म मेरो साँच्चै महत्त्वपूर्ण कुरा गुमाउन दिन कल्पना गर्न सक्दैन लागि म आफ्नो जूता मा आफैलाई कल्पना गर्न सक्दैन। म पनि यो आउनेछ भन्ने दिन पछुतो हुनेछ।

My gracious family hosts from Tansen

My friends, Nepal is very precious to me. You don't know how happy I was traveling back to your country a few months ago. I came back to Nepal in less than a year because i found home in your country apart from my home here in the Philippines.

Sometimes, i often ask myself why i love your country so much. My friends and colleagues would wonder why i keep on coming back to a relatively poor country. I can travel to other rich countries, yet a flight to Kathmandu is always a plan for me. I stayed in Nepal for two months, too short for other travelers, but ultimate very long for normal people. For me, the time i spent there felt like forever. For now that i am away in Nepal, is just temporary.

मेरो मित्र, नेपाल मलाई धेरै बहुमूल्य छ। तपाईं म केही महिना पहिले फिर्ता आफ्नो देश यात्रा थियो कसरी आनन्दित थाहा छैन। म फिलिपिन्समा यहाँ मेरो घर अलग्गै आफ्नो देश मा घर फेला किनभने म भन्दा कम एक वर्ष पछि नेपाल आए।

म यति आफ्नो देश प्रेम किन कहिलेकाहीं, म आफूलाई अक्सर सोध्छन्। म एक अपेक्षाकृत गरिब देश फिर्ता आ गरिरहन किन मेरो मित्र र सहकर्मीसँग आश्चर्य हुनेछ। म अन्य धनी देशहरूको यात्रा गर्न सक्छन्, तर काठमाडौं उडान सधैं मेरो लागि एक योजना छ। म सामान्य मान्छे को लागि धेरै लामो पनि अन्य यात्री लागि छोटो, तर अन्तिम दुई महिना लागि नेपाल बसे। मेरो लागि, म त्यहाँ खर्च सधैंभरि जस्तै लाग्यो। अब म दूर नेपाल हुँ भनी लागि, बस अस्थायी छ।

Playful kids from Kapilvastu

It may be because of the romantic air at Patan Durbar Square at night, or the quiet atmosphere at Bungamati before dawn. Up until now, i can still imagine the delicious Dahl Bat i eat almost every day in Tansen, or the fried momos i order in Sauraha. It may also be that afternoon glow of Machhapuchare in Pokhara during winter, or the mighty Himalayas in Kakani. I also think it might be the Maha Shivaratra festival i was blessed to go to in Pashupati, or the Tuesday that i went to Dakshinkali.

I will run out of words in expressing the many different things i can never forget about Nepal, same as how much i am in love with your country.

I know during the past few weeks, you feel sad that all that you have worked for are all gone. It's not easy saving money to build a house, nurse a child, and feed the family. My friends, look at the bright side of things. You may lose all material possessions you have, but you're still blessed to be alive. Life is a blessing that you have but others have lost. Today as you read this, smile because you've overcome the great tragedy for you're still breathing. Many people are dying around the world, and i know that you may have lost a friend, a family member or even someone from the village. Always remember that the gift of life that you still have is what will make you feel in the long run.

यो किनभने राती पाटन Durbar स्क्वायर मा रोमान्टिक हावा, या प्रारम्भ अघि Bungamati मा शान्त वातावरण को हुन सक्छ। अब सम्म, म अझै पनि म तानसेन मा लगभग हरेक दिन खाने स्वादिष्ट Dahl चमेरो, या म Sauraha मा क्रम तला momos कल्पना गर्न सक्नुहुन्छ। यो पनि हिउँदमा समयमा पोखरा मा Machhapuchare को दिउँसो चमक, या Kakani मा शक्तिशाली हिमालय हुन सक्छ। म पनि यो म Dakshinkali गए कि म पशुपति मा जान आशिष् थियो Maha Shivaratra चाड, वा मंगलवार हुन सक्छ लाग्छ।

म नै म आफ्नो देश प्रेम मा हूँ कति रूपमा म नेपाल, को बारे मा भूल कहिल्यै गर्न सक्छन् विभिन्न कुरा व्यक्त शब्दहरू सकिएको हुनेछ।

म विगत केही सप्ताह समयमा, तपाईं को लागि काम गरेका छन् कि सबै सबै गएका छन् दुःखी महसुस थाह छ। यो, एक घर निर्माण एक बच्चा नर्स, र परिवार खुवाउन सजिलो बचत पैसा छैन। मेरो मित्र, कुराहरूको उज्ज्वल तिर देखो। तपाईंलाई सबै सामाग्री सम्पत्ति गुमाउन सक्छ, तर तपाईं अझै जीवित हुन अनमोल छौं। जीवन तपाईं तर अरूलाई गुमाएका एक आशिष् छ।तपाईं यस पढ्न रूपमा तपाईं अझै सास हुनुहुन्छ लागि ठूलो त्रासदी हटाउन गर्नुभएको किनभने आज, मुस्कान। धेरै मानिसहरू दुनिया भर मर्ने छन्, र म तिमीलाई एक मित्र, एक परिवारको सदस्य वा गाउँमा देखि पनि कुनै गुमाएका हुन सक्छ भनेर थाह छ। सधैँ अझै छ कि जीवनको उपहारलाई तपाईं लामो रन मा महसूस हुनेछ के छ भनेर नबिर्सनुहोस्।

Holiday hike with teenagers in Ramkot

Mourn and grieve now, but stand up and work hard to come back. You will feel more alive than ever. Like a spinning wheel, life is like that. Sometimes, you're up but sometimes you're down. You've been down the past few weeks, i know. But after this, the wheel will go up again. There is no way for your life to go but up.

As i write this, i think i am starting to understand why i love Nepal so much. Old historical buildings and places of worship may have crumbled, and brick houses may falter, trekking season to the mountains may stop, but your country still have something that nobody can take away. No earthquake can shook the people of Nepal.

शोक र अब शोक, तर खडा र फिर्ता आउन कठिन काम। तपाईं कहिल्यै भन्दा बढी जीवित महसुस गर्नेछन्। एक कताई पाङ्ग्रा जस्तै, जीवन जस्तो छ। कहिलेकाहीं, तपाईं छौं तर कहिलेकाहीं तपाईं तल छौं। तपाईं पछिल्लो केहि सप्ताह तल पुग्नु भएका, मलाई थाहा छ। तर यस पछि, पाङ्ग्रा फेरि जानेछु। आफ्नो जीवन जाने तर माथि लागि कुनै तरिका छ।

म यो लेख्न, म म यति नेपाल प्रेम किन बुझ्न शुरू छु लाग्छ। पुरानो ऐतिहासिक भवनहरु र उपासनाको ठाउँमा crumbled हुन सक्छ, र ईटा घरहरू रोक्न सक्छ पहाडहरू गर्न मौसम Trekking, falter सक्छ, तर आफ्नो देश अझै कोही होइन दूर गर्न सक्छन् भन्ने कुरा छ। कुनै भूकम्प नेपाल मानिसहरूलाई shook सक्छन्।

Eager babu's first time to see a camera in Bandipur

The Nepalese people are truly the most inspiring people i have ever met. The days i have spent there in your country have been memorable. Where every person i have met have touched my heart like no other. Back where i live, i would often smile in admiration whenever i talk about you all. I never fail to laugh when you all nod at a stranger, someone you don't know. That someone is me. Yet, i've never felt like a stranger. Whenever i set foot in another district, in each place i visit, i never fail to make friends because you've opened your hearts to me. In a very small village or even a huge district, i've never felt in danger because i know you keep even strangers safe.

It's all of you that is the real treasure of Nepal. It's your faith that will lead you towards making the right decision from hereon. It's your innate value of giving that will make all the hungry eat. It's your wisdom that will surely make you recover from this tragedy faster. It's your love for one another that will make Nepal come back from all of this.

नेपाली मानिसहरूलाई साँच्चै म कहिल्यै भेट गरेका छन् भन्दा प्रेरक मानिसहरू हुन्। म आफ्नो देश मा त्यहाँ बिताए गरेको दिन अविस्मरणीय रहेको छ। म कहाँ भेटे छन् हरेक व्यक्ति कुनै अन्य जस्तै मेरो मन छोयो छन्। म बाँच्न कहाँ म तिमीलाई सबै कुरा जब फिर्ता, म अक्सर प्रशंसा मा मुस्कान थियो। म तिमीलाई पराई सबै टाउको निहुराउनु, कसैले तपाईंलाई थाहा छैन जब हाँस्न असफल कहिल्यै। त्यो कुनै मलाई छ। यद्यपि, म पराई जस्तै महसुस कहिल्यै गर्नुभयो। म भ्रमण प्रत्येक ठाउँमा, अर्को जिल्ला खुट्टा सेट जब, म तिमीलाई मलाई आफ्नो हृदय खोल्न गर्नुभएको किनभने मित्र बनाउन असफल कहिल्यै। म तिमीलाई पनि सुरक्षित अपरिचित राख्न थाहा किनभने धेरै सानो गाउँमा वा एक विशाल जिल्ला, म खतरा महसुस कहिल्यै गर्नुभयो।

यो तपाईं को सबै नेपालको वास्तविक धन छ छ। यो hereon देखि सही निर्णय तिर तपाईं नेतृत्व हुनेछ भनेर आफ्नो विश्वास छ। यो खान सबै भोकाएका बनाउन हुनेछ भनेर दिने आफ्नो जन्मबाट प्राप्त मूल्य हो। यो पक्कै पनि तपाईं यो त्रासदी छिटो देखि ठीक गर्नेछन् भनेर आफ्नो बुद्धि छ। यो नेपाल यो सबै देखि फिर्ता आ बनाउन हुनेछ भनेर आपसमा आफ्नो प्रेम हो।

A portrait of myself spending the best time in my second home, Bandipur, Nepal

And it's all of you, Nepalese people, that will stand up again. Wipe your tears dry now, and start fresh. I am very proud of each and everyone of you. Dhanyabad!

Ma Nepal Lai Maya Garchu!

You're number 1 fan.

Jerik Gurung

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Read the rest of my travel notes from Nepal here.

र यो तपाईं को सबै छ, नेपाली मान्छे, कि फेरि खडा हुनेछ। आफ्नो आँसु अब शुष्क नामेट, र ताजा सुरु। म तिमीलाई प्रत्येक र सबैको धेरै गर्व हुँ। Dhanyabad!

Ma नेपाल लाइ माया Garchu!

तपाईं नम्बर 1 प्रशंसक छौं।

Jerik गुरुङले

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नेपाल मेरो यात्रा टिप्पणीहरू बाँकी पढ्नुहोस् यहाँ ।

I wanted to turn back time. If only i could have a couple more days to extend, i would. Nepal is such a great country to travel to. And as i type this in the comforts of my home here in the Philippines, i recall the fantastic moments of my last few days in the country.

I remember waking up really early on my last day. I knew i would not be spending another day, but only a few hours in Kathmandu. I went up to have my favorite special breakfast at the roof top of Kathmandu City Hotel. I talked to the waiters and cooks who work tirelessly to ensure i have something to eat first thing in the morning. I told myself i will never leave without us having a photo opportunity. To Shree Krishna, much appreciate bro the excellent service. Others may don't like the idea posing in front of the camera, i'd like to think otherwise. When you've traveled a thousand miles away from home, and meet the most beautiful people, i reckon you would do the same.

I left Philippines with two bags, i am leaving Nepal with five. As i went to the bank with Shiva to pay for my accommodations, i checked out a couple more shops to buy another bag so i don't end up having too many bags. I would rather have one oversize bag so as to ensure i don't lose them. Before i left, i said goodbye to Lamsal, Shiva and Ramhari. Lamsal gave me a Kata, which is a traditional Tibetan scarf given to guests during departure to ensure a safe voyage. Shiva vowed to connect with me on Facebook so i can meet my future wife. I kept the Kata with me, and waved my last goodbye to the awesome people of Kathmandu City Hotel.

I rode the taxi going to the airport, and yet meeting kind Nepalese people never ends. My driver was friendly and honest. Again, the usual conversation piece of Jerik Gurung re-appears. And the thirty minute ride to the airport was hassle-free and a whole lot of fun. I arrived at the airport and smoked my Surya for the very last time. The line going inside the departure terminal was less manic than my last time. With a couple of foreigners snaking their way to get ahead, i stayed put. What's the worse that couple happen, not making in time for my flight? So be it. I have learned to accept the worst and welcome the best in Nepal. Staying for a few more days would be a delight for me. Sadly, I made it in time. Even though, i fell in a line that never seem to move. Many local people come meet their friends who're in line so they get in line, too. I've learned to accept that in any transportation hub in the country. Falling in line is only a suggestion in Nepal.

I weighed my bag at the check-in counter, and realized i was still a few more kilos overweight so i had to take out some stuff from my check in. I always fly Thai Airways leaving Kathmandu because at economy i get 30 kilos check-in baggage. Remind me to fly Thai Airways again, this time going to Nepal.

I was seated on the left side of the plane but not on the window seat. I picked this seat because i wanted to check out the view of Everest for the very last time, hoping the passenger on the window side is kind enough to let me take photos. Good thing, i was a seated to an old chap from Melbourne. And instead of watching a film on the 7 inch screen, we talked about his girlfriend from Kathmandu, the bar he works in Melbourne, and his few hours transit in Bangkok, all this while we were enjoying our food. Once in a while, i would capture a couple stills of the himalayas.

It didn't take long before i arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport. After the three hour flight, that was the only realization point that i have already left Nepal -- my favorite country in the world. Let it be known here, Thailand is one of my personal favorite countries in South East Asia. Having visited the country more than seven times now, i feel relaxed because i know may way around Bangkok.

The only thing i have forgotten to do was to exchange my Nepali Rupee to US Dollar. I have about ten thousand with me, and it was regretful that when i arrived in Bangkok, no bank would like to exchange my money. Up until now, i have no idea why. I remember exchanging my rupees last year at the very same airport.

As i pick up my baggage, i was left with a very crucial decision. I relatively had no money with me, at the start of my almost a week long trip to Bangkok and then to Bandar Seri Begawan, tired and hungry. I phoned home and asked for help. I left my baggage to keep and sprinted my way to Paya Thai via the city train. It only takes less than an hour, and 45 Baht to get to the stop. From there, i rode a tuk-tuk for 100 rupees. Last year, i rode a motorcycle paying the same amount. It's already a bargain, considering i am in Thailand already, and the Thai tuk-tuk drivers are the most aggressive in the world. I chanced upon a very quiet yet honest uncle to bring me to Khao San Road safely. Of course, I've had enough of the infamous street but i liked the location's convenience. I roamed around Rambuttri and checked in at a hotel called ViengTai. It's my most expensive stay yet after two months, but for the night, i wasn't hesitant at all. What helped me decide to stay is the staff whom i talked to; one spoke Filipino and the other guy was very helpful. I had a few hundred bahts with me which i spent eating barbecue on the road side while enjoying beer.

It was a very long day, and a good sleep was something i was looking forward to doing since i arrived at the airport. I woke up the next day well-rested, and hungry. Good thing, i had buffet breakfast waiting for me at the lobby. After eating a ridiculous amount of pancakes and fruits, i was off to check the pool. It was a bit of a maze finding where it is actually. But discovering no noisy farang in sight made my morning extra wonderful. That's when i realized, i was staying at a fancy hotel. Having spent a lot of time in Khao San Road in the past seven years and staying at the seediest places, it felt weird that i had this bit of luxury, now when i don't have enough cash with me.

After a good shower, and putting a fresh set of clothing, i found myself walking around Khao San. A few minutes later, i was already drenched in sweat. I manned up and walked until i reached the junction towards National Stadium. The humid afternoon of Bangkok totally killed me, so a tuk-tuk ride again was necessary.

I can't believe two months passed by so quickly. When i first arrived in Nepal a year ago, i knew i would be coming back again and again in this country. So it was not surprising that after the new year celebration in Manila, i was on transit in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia bound for Kathmandu, Nepal. I still had the same guide book with me, which i bought for only 500 rupees at Pilgrims Bookstore in Thamel. A week ago, i learned of the unfortunate fire accident that affected a couple more stores beside the infamous book shop. Nepal didn't change a thing. It's still the same old country that i fell in love with. It's sharp contradiction to big, first world countries is one of the reasons why i love this country so much. I've written about the awful air pollution, the dirty alleys filled with so many things you will cringe seeing back at home, the unfathomable discipline of the people falling in line at entrances and bus parks. Yet, i have accepted everything there is to hate in this country. So, i guess this is love, huh?

I lied down at one of the cushions inside the Garden of Dreams in nearby Thamel. I paid 200 rupees to get inside, one of the few tickets i needed to pay in this country. I lied in there, away from the hustle and bustle of manic Thamel. It was quiet, more often weird to think that only minutes away, i was almost hit by a taxi cab. Not that its his fault, because he has no more space to drive around in. I thought i've never seen so many couples in one day. There's too many love birds expressing their love for each other. It's always inspiring to see love flourish. Earlier while i was looking for the toilet, i chanced upon a young couple kissing so passionately, i felt embarrassed for interrupting them. Valentine's Day passed by me nonchalantly. I was walking around Kathmandu last February 14th. While 90% of the people I've seen were all in the company of their loved ones,i was there enjoying my steak at a fancy cafe. There are moments when i feel lonely in Nepal, without another hand to hold, or a warm body to embrace. But all were just some passing thought. I never felt sad because i was on a very long engagement with this country.

I spent about three hours inside the park. I've seen so many couples come and go, but i never left. I always thought that these moments do last forever. And in a year or two, i will always remember these instances, so precious and dear to my heart.

Garden of Dreams is probably the most beautiful park I've ever seen. It's not too big, and not too crowded. It's very relaxing and convenient to go to. The park opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I was there before dusk.

It's hard to grasp how i felt there. At one point, i felt happy and relieved that my adventurous trip to the mountains is over. And falling on a cliff or in a gorge is all but a bad dream. But at the same time, i felt sad that i am a day away from leaving Nepal. But during my quiet contemplation here, i realized it's okay to be sad. Who on earth would be happy knowing this journey of mine is already coming to an end? Nobody. I will be back to Nepal for sure. I've kept my promise once. Hell, i can keep one more.

Later that day, i went back to buy stuff for my family. I've bought a couple of shirts, accessories, and a handful of trinkets. I went back to the same shop by the junction to buy stuff for the home. Days ago, i met this young man in the shop. I've told him about my trip last year, and how i bought so many stuff for the home. This year, i came back to get some more. I promised him i will be back before i leave. After negotiating a good price for a ceramic brass plate, a couple of masks, carved wooden boxes, and a lot more Hindu signages, i thanked the manager for a good transaction. I saw the young man again, and showed my shopping bag. His smile was from ear to ear. I came back to my hotel, and saw Shiva. We enjoyed the dinner of Dahl Bat. So by this time, i could assume the saying Dahl Bat 24 hour Power.

It was not a tearful night as i suspected. More so, it felt like i was going on a vacation. It felt weird that i felt like going on a short trip wherein fact i will be coming back home to the Philippines. Yet, i take everything in stride. This is how i felt, so be it.

He then asked me one important question that i almost forgot all this time. Shiva in his usual curious face, "How many kilos do you have for check in baggage?".

Completely stuck with the words... kilos and baggage. I said to myself, "Oh,no!".

I have already left Kathmandu but every single day, i always think about the people i have met, especially at Kathmandu City Hotel. I think it's God's work that i stayed at this hotel after discovering my previous hotel has been fully booked. I could walked to another hotel, a few meters away, and stayed there --one that is cheaper. But i chose this hotel because the minute i stepped inside, i knew i would stay here for a very long time. Little did i know, i would realize that this was one of the best decisions of my life.

Just today, i stepped inside a room, and gave the man my speech. I am very lucky with the opportunity that i have with me right now. One that i can never ever pass. I just spent the whole day maneuvering my life to another direction. One direction that i know will do me good, and the people I've met. I am the captain of my own ship. As i navigate my destiny, i knew that this was the path i wanted to take.

I could have gone on another day trip outside Kathmandu, yet i stayed. I spent the last two days of my stay in Nepal at this hotel. I was transferred to the same corner room, although one floor down. It has the same feel, bit of luxury, located right in the heart of Thamel. The people manning the place are all professionals. In five years, i bet Kathmandu City Hotel will grow to become the number 1 hotel in Thamel. I didn't get paid for this. Heck, i never get paid writing stories here in this blog because i never allow it. This blog is the only property i have that's never measured by any number. Up until now, my mind hasn't changed.

The man on the left of the photo above is Lamsal. He is one of the most intelligent Nepali man I've ever met. After days of observing him, i realize how fast he thinks, solves guests' unruly problems, and gives suggestions. His shift is in the morning, the perfect person i always ask whenever i find myself lost between doing nothing for the day or going out to nowhere. He would offer me Masala tea all the time as he knows how big of a fan i am of the Nepali tea. I never paid for all those cups, mind you. I don't know if he's ever met anybody like me, who prefers doing absolutely nothing. The man on the right is Shiva. A father of two, a doting husband, who takes the night shift. After coming from a long day walking around, he's there as my sounding board for my unfathomable love for this country. He never fails to answer me from the dumbest to the most technical questions i have about the country. During my last few days in Thamel, i would spend evenings with him talking about religion, having a Nepali wife, power cut-offs and even vegetables. I would order Dahl Bat and eat with him, because after spending most of my two months eating alone in Nepal, a local friend would be awesome.

Today, i think about these people. And the brother of Shiva's wife will stick to my head for the rest of my life. Once you know his life story, you would appreciate life on a whole different perspective. You would think twice before spending something you don't need. You would think twice before honking your car because of traffic. He's ten years younger than me, but his story could very well fit a war veteran. He is one of the strongest man i know. And whenever i talk to him, i could see in his eyes the passion and struggle to become somebody in the future. You don't see that a lot in here.

You see, my mornings and evenings were all spent in this hotel. Not to enjoy the room but to enjoy the company of all the people working here. It sounds cliche that people here are nice because 99% of the Nepali you will meet on the road are all nice, too. But these people made a lasting impression on me because they treated me very nicely. It felt like i didn't stay at a hotel. It felt like i was actually living with them.

Every day, i would wake up late. I will eat my breakfast at the roof top terrace and i will always order the biggest plate of first meal in the world. I would sit for a while as i smoke my Surya, and chat with the young waiters. We would talk for a few hours before i go back to my room and shower. Then, i would go down to Lamsal and ask him where i can go. He always fixes my itinerary. After spending a ridiculous amount of time planning, i would then head out and change my plans again. I would come back late in the evening and say hello to Shiva. I would sit in the couch and talk about where i went that day. He would offer me Dahl Bat and we would eat up stairs while getting to know Nepal a bit more. I would relax for a bit in my room before coming down to watch TV with the rest of the crew. At first sight, people may think my days were boring. But i feel, i have finally settled and these moments are truly memorable.

This story is suppose to be a review of Kathmandu City Hotel but right at this very moment, as i type this, all i could think about are their kindness. All i could ever think about are the moments we've all shared in this home.

In the remaining days of my stay in Nepal, talking to these people capped off my learnings of Nepal. And i could go on and on, but definitely, the prize possession of this country is really the people. I've never stayed in any country this long. There's only one reason for that. I love Nepal with all my heart.

I walked into the room today, with the brightest answers to every question. I walked and talked about my life, my career, my goals and aspirations. I've talked about the people I've met and my undying love for travel. I've talked about how i see my future. I wanted to do good today because i believe this is the direction destiny has brought me. I am doing this not only for myself but for the people i have met at Kathmandu City Hotel. These people served as my inspiration to do good because i know they are looking forward to hearing good news from me. And in return, i give them the greatest gift in the world --a glimmer of hope that they too can succeed.

I had a choice: it's either i explore Chapagaon since i am already in Patan (Lalitpur) or i venture to the other side near Bhaktapur to Sankhu. I chose the former because it was more convenient. I reckon i can do Sankhu on my next visit. I found myself on the same walk going to Lagankhel Bus Park. As usual, the smell of jasmine, incense and burning fuel still envelopes the air outside the durbar square. I looked for a bus heading to Chapagaon, but instead of a bus, i found a mini-van. It appears as if there are only a few trips that day so i managed like a scout and rode on this particular van. Even if i only had half a seat, and the waiting time took more then 20 minutes on an enclosed dilapidated van, i was getting excited to visit Chapagaon. Again, most people I've talked in Patan know of the area but haven't visited which made me giggle in excitement. The mini van started to roll at around 12NN. The time estimates here are always conservative. The trip from Patan to Chapagaon didn't take too long. And the approximate 1-hour trip ended up only about 30 minutes.

When i arrived in Chapagaon, i saw a signage of the Bajrabahari Temple but all words are in Nepali. I trusted my instincts and went up to the gate. I walked further north and see the vast open woods. I've read about the rich bird sanctuary in this area. The sign in the north entrance helped me a little identify a few birds scrambling around the thick forest. A few minutes later, a blasting sound was heard. As i approach, i discovered a family dancing and obviously, on a picnic. On one side, a group of about 50 Gurkhas were stationed eating Dahl Bat. Chapagaon is almost forgotten. There were no tourists and you can only get by pre-reading as there's no information stated in any of the desk. But once you step in the square near the temple, you could almost imagine how it must have been hundreds of years ago. The temple is situated in the middle of the forest so it made the trip there more cinematic. There were a few elderly chaps sitting by the steps and bewildered by me. I smiled, and felt at home immediately.

An hour later, i found myself walking east towards a highway overlooking the valley. I told myself that if i walk straight i will be lead to an even more amazing view. Of course, it wasn't the case. Walking for about 5 kilometers lead me to a dead-end. I stopped for a bit, and finished the remaining water i have in my bottle, and asked for directions. True enough, i was already located outside Chapagaon in an unheard town i sadly forgot. They pointed me to go back where i was and head south instead. I followed their advice and continued walking.

If the temples littered around Chapagaon were located in an isolated ground, this would definitely have the Angkor Wat and/or Bagan feel. But the structures were located along the highway, next to a house where a family of five lives, next to a shop where school products are sold, and definitely next to a water tank infiltrated by green molasses. As i walked some more, i realized how off the beaten path this place is. When i started taking photos of the house exteriors, everyone looked at me and they started chatting about me. I nodded in Nepali and told them i am a tourist, and continued on with my quest to take more amazing stills. At each direction, a dead-end appears, whether be it a steep cliff, or rice paddies. I saw an old man playing a flute in one corner. In this day and age, have you ever seen a man play the flute that's not for show? I paused for a bit and listed to him. His music is so beautiful that i have recorded it on my GoPro. Back at home, you would pay premium to watch a musician perform, here in Chapagaon, you end getting lost and you can watch a star reborn. I remembered someone asked me where i was from. And i remember telling the curious man about my home town. A few minutes later, i stumbled upon a seller. I was going to ask him for the bus to Lele Valley when he asked me if i was from the Philippines. This is how small Chapagaon is. People know everyone.

After waiting for half an hour without any sign of a public bus heading to Lele, i decided to forego my plan and just stay in Chapagaon instead. The remaining hours lead me to public baths, even more emerald looking rice paddies and old local people impossibly walking up and down the gravel staircases. It's little instances like this that you feel how fortunate our lives are back in the comfort of our homes, where a taxi comes in handy to cool off during midday. This couple whom i met while i was scrambling to go on top must be aged between 70 to 80 years old. The old man is resting and catching his breath while the old woman is rubbing his back. I stopped for that moment. It was so beautiful to watch. This particular incident cemented my love for Chapagaon. Sadly, there were no hotels or guest houses in Chapagaon. If there was, i would have stayed at least a night here.

The trip to Chapagaon satisfied my urge to visit off the beaten path places in the Kathmandu Valley. True, i couldn't find any restaurant serving food other than dahl bat and momo, and walking is the only means to go from north to south, but the feeling of discovering this place is so worthwhile. Chapagaon is a superstar. I could literally see Chapagaon to exist in every tourist's itinerary five years from now.

Because at that day, i was going to no particular direction at all, i stumbled upon a farmer who wanted to help me get to where i want to go. But of course, it would be too hard for him to understand if i tell him that i just want to go for a walk and i'm heading nowhere in particular. He started smiling at me as i take continuous shots of the rice paddies and every cobbled step i see. Minutes later, he started to descend to another village and i saw him wave his hands to say goodbye to me. Oh, Nepal! I am so in love with you. ;)

Leafing through my guide book, one morning, i thought of going to Bungamati. Some people don't even know where that is. Some locals I've talked to haven't been there, too. One morning in my Patan hotel room, i thought of visiting this small town because not much has been written about it. The curious in me wanted to know how Bungamati looks like in person. It is true that the longer i stay in Nepal, the more places i have been visiting. And i thank the fate, for if not my disappointing Bangladesh visa application and super expensive tour package to Bhutan, i wouldn't be here in the first place.

Getting here was part-hard work and part-luck. The hotel managers say two different things when i asked how to get to Bungamati by public transportation. One manager says i ride from Jawalakhel, the Tibetan refugee district of Patan, the other manager says i ride from Lagankhel bus park, the main bus station of Patan (Lalitpur). I followed my instincts and walked going to Lagankel. It's nearer to my hotel, and less than a kilometer away from the durbar square. On the way to the bus station and south of the durbar square, i passed by countless number of shops selling from garlands to gold, from clothing to cups, and from sweets to salami. After a very rewarding walk, i finally arrived at the bus park. Surprisingly, it's more chaotic than Ragna Park located in the heart of Kathmandu. I went up to five different conductors asking where is the bus to Bungamati until i was directed to a bus bound for Bungamati. In the guide book,it says it takes an hour to reach my destination. After about 30 minutes and paying about 20 rupees, i was already at Bungamati Bus Station. The trip going there made me think twice how Bungamati really appears. We've passed by several apartments and condominiums first. When i stepped out of the bus station, the magic of Bungamati starts to appear. The single alley going to the heart of the town is old, rural, quiet and totally non-commercialized. I felt that my first minute there already the million dollar question: Is Bungamati worth it? Without a doubt, i must say.

It didn't take me too long to reach Rato Machhendranath Temple: the imposing white temple sacred to Newars. The small courtyard fronting the temple evokes simplicity. And the beating heart of Newaris is so apparent once you start gazing on the outskirts. People live every single day steps away from this magnificent temple. I saw a mother and daughter washing vegetables on one side, a couple of old men sitting by the wooden bench outside a shop, and more Hindus paying tribute by lighting up candles and circling the temple. Minutes later, a throng of pilgrims came and danced while on approach. There was music playing, and people start gathering. In minutes, Bungamati turned from a quiet courtyard to a fiesta place. Later, i found myself walking to quiet alleys penetrated by small doors. There were more people there, but unlike in the courtyard where people are dancing, in here men carefully carve an image of Shiva or Kali from a flat wood. The intricacy of the work will make you think twice before bargaining a few rupees for a souvenir.

I walked east to discover children fooling around and playing with their friends. It is unimaginable to think that every single day, these kids do the same thing. Their playground is the single cobbled alley way that's witness to a couple of men playing cards, a neighbor blasting Hindi music, and a couple of shops who haven't sold anything in days. People know every one here. A nod here and there, one could sense the tight knit of the community looking after each other.

After quenching my thirst at one of the shops, i sat next to two old men. One of which still dressed handsomely in his Topi and earring. The other, obviously tired and hungry, pauses for a break. Later on, he rode his bicycle again with his wares. This moment made me think more about my father, and how much i think he misses me. I've been away for two months now, and have walked to the highest and lowest points in the Kathmandu Valley. I have started a conversation with kids and adults. I have shared with them my thoughts and aspirations. And i miss hanging out with my old man.

I walked to the west, and found some more houses. People stare at me more as these people haven't seen much tourist. If only they can realize how unbelievably beautiful their town is, they would then understand why i ogle at every direction in sight: crumbling Newari houses, playful kids always joking, old men and women whose charisma are so unfathomable.

Instead of hopping on another bus, i walked to reach the neighboring town of Kokhan. It is here where emerald gardens arise, and the people even more surprised to see a tourist in their home town. I spent a couple more hours here, catching the last glimpse of the sun for the day.

Less than an hour away from Patan, and the scenery has already changed so dramatically. I couldn't figure out how a bridge of just a few kilometers has left this area so noncommercial. About a month and half ago, i was on the other side of Bungamati river, in Kirtipur and Chobar. Separated only by a narrow river, yet the vibe is totally different. Bungamati is even more rural than Chobar and i think the latter has relatively been unspoiled.

I went back to Patan an hour before sunset, coming back from Bungamati. I enjoyed a hearty dinner at Cafe De Patan before retiring for the day. The chicken cutlet was really good, so was the vegetable friend rice. A new discovery I've had is that Patan could also be a good base for day trips around the valley. Don't you think?

After a very sound sleep at Bhoudanath, and making the most of the eve of Losar, i knew i was ready to hit the road again. I started with a plan to go to Bhaktapur bound for the little visited town Sankhu. Confident that i am, i knew that walking north of Bhouda going to the market stand will lead me to the highway. Of course, i was wrong. Walking this way lead me to the official consulate of Bhutan, and the morning market. I didn't falter, and continued on, making my way to even more markets and dusty, potholed roads. Right at this moment, i knew i was already lost. I always do that. I always like to discover whether my decisions are right or wrong. This time, i was wrong. I hailed too many taxis but all of them charge me a premium. I base my calculations on the number of kilometers it is needed to go to a destination. I was even charged up to 1200 rupees for a 6 kilometer trip. That is highway daylight robbery. Taxi drivers are all the same, anywhere in the world. They always charge a higher rate for foreigners thinking they have more money. It's not always the case. I have very limited budget, and expenses as such could hurt me in the long run. Most of them will ask me how much i am willing to spend. I always say "China", meaning no need.

After an hour of walking, i saw a familiar road. It's the road that my taxi passed by the day before bound for Gokharna Mahadev. This only means one thing. I was going further down south opposite of my intended destination. It was already noon, and not having any breakfast, i was already getting hungry. I passed by one restaurant only to discover that they don't have anything apart from Dahl Bat. Luckily, on my next check, there was a restaurant in the middle of the highway. The kind lady took my orders: chicken fried rice and fried vegetable momos. Initially, i wanted Tom Yum soup which they had in the menu, but of course, it was out of stock. After an hour of waiting and figuring out where the hell i am, my food arrived and I remember finishing everything in less than 15 minutes. The kind lady started chatting, and i told her of my state. She asked me where i was heading. In reality, i had no fixed plan. I had no hotel reservation and no intended destination. I knew i wanted to go to Sankhu. That's about it. Also, Sankhu is pronounced without the n, so there was a bit of misunderstanding, too. She phoned her fried who was a taxi driver, who by this time is still eating. I waited for a couple more minutes, and her friend arrived. I felt bad that he had to rush his lunch.

I talked to taxi driver, and he quoted 1500 rupees to get from Bhouda/Kopan to Sankhu via Gokharna Forest. He told me it's an 18-kilometer trip but through research, i knew it was only about 8 kilometers from where i am exactly. Still willing to explore, but not enough money with me, i asked for the price to other destinations. Going to Bhaktapur is still too expensive, while Patan seems more probable. He said it's 600 rupees to go to the durbar square. I said, "yes" and waved goodbye to the kind lady. After almost an hour, i knew the price was right. It took a very long time to get to Patan as i was at the far end place at the opposite side. I arrived at Patan Durbar Square, and made a detour to the main town bypassing the durbar square. It was a good familiarization trip. I was here about a year ago, but only on a day trip from Kathmandu. This time, i was excited because i will be sleeping and imagining myself there at dusk and dawn. After walking to too many highways and alleys, i told myself that i will check in at the very first hotel i see. A few minutes later, i was already bargaining for the room price at Cafe De Patan. I knew of this hotel, and how it's been operating for more than two decades now. I checked for the room, and it looked clean and close enough to the durbar square. Well, close enough means it less than 10 seconds away from the cobbled stones of Patan Durbar Square. But what made me choose the hotel is that i have a very wide glass window looking over the beautiful Uma Mashwar temple. It was a no-brainer for me at 1200 rupees for a double room.

I spent an hour in the shower, three hours in bed, and another hour dressing up. I felt so refreshed that i was so ready to walk around beautiful Patan. I sat at one of the benches, and just watched the durbar square as it is slowly filled up with many youngsters. Some of of them perform skateboard stunts which is always a delight to see. Similar to Kathmandu, people go here at sunset to chat, eat and mingle with friends. The beaming of the sun unto the historical crumbling temples was simply amazing. I walked around its very compact square, and found myself a spot where i could sit and just relax. I took many photos that day until i saw a group of foreigners with a name card/ticket tied by a small string around their neck. It was their ticket to enter the durbar square, which i don't have. Guess what happened next???

After three failed attempts, i have finally succeeded in going to Losar. Losar is the equivalent to chinese new year, and a super mega Tibetan holiday. Many buddhist pilgrims come to places like Bhouda and Swayambhu to celebrate as they look forward to a year of utmost blessings to come.

Again, it was a last minute decision. I've just spent four hours looking for places to go at the lobby of Kathmandu City Hotel when Lamsal, hotel manager and owner, introduced me to his friends. After speaking of my disappointment to them and not going to Losar in time, they suggested i go now to Bhouda for today is the big day. Without hesitation, i left my two backpacks, and carried my duffel to Bhouda. I circled the stupa for thirteen times before deciding to stay at Comfort Guest House. The room is huge with two big beds, the windows are intricately carved, facing some butter lamps stowed for the night. The WiFi of the hotel didn't work, but the guest house next door was working perfectly fine, and i have acquired their signal. The only problem is there is no attached bathroom, and going to the loo in the middle of the night is a bummer. Since there was no electricity, so was the light to the stairs, and the bathroom itself.

I paid 700 rupees for a room, not bad, for a one night stand.

Losar started out quite nicely, and as hours pass by, more and more people came. Most of the devotees wore elaborate costumes, and Tibetan formal wear. I've learned that this day, many people came and dressed sharply for the new year. Later afternoon, a truck generator came, and in a few minutes, the largest stupa in Nepal was now lighted in assortment of candy colors. I've been to Boudhanath at least four times, and this is the only time i was here at night and when it is well-lit.

I stopped by Himalayan Cafe for dinner, and enjoyed the breezy night. Two young locals were making out in one corner, as an 80's love song was being played. It didn't bother me, but knowing that we're in front of a holy place seems to make me frown a little. Somehow, i got confused whether the day was Losar or valentine's day. Either way, may be the couple wanted to start the year with an action, eh?

Since i was staying inside the Boudhanath complex for the night, i had the luxury of time. I circled the stupa a few more times, and discovered Tibetan monks playing the local instrument as devotees gave biscuits, pop corns, flowers, etc. in a mountain of offering. The incense has filled the air, and more people came at night to worship.

A little after 9 o'clock, and the crowd of hundreds has slowly left. By this time, i was seated to one of the benches fronting the stupa. Beside me is a huge dog, two foreign dharma students, and a mad person seated on the stoned floors. Maybe, i was destined to sit here at this very same spot so i can fully realize what Losar really means. I don't understand the concept of the Tibetan New Year, as obviously, i am not Tibetan or Buddhist. Earlier, i saw hundreds of devotees giving out food as offering. And this mad person beside me is eating rotten food. And the worse part is, he has no clean drinking water. I gave the man my spare unsealed bottled water. I always buy two before heading to my hotel. Suddenly, i feel that Losar means so much more than celebrating the coming year dressed to impress. It is about celebrating kindness of people. Buddha pronounces to spread kindness to people. Yet, this man who has been here since morning, has only eaten once.

I didn't talk to him nor did i give instructions. I left the bottled water and nodded like a Nepali. I came back a few minutes later, and the water is more than halfway finished already. I've never been so happy. I feel that my trips has been really, really rewarding spiritually.

Yes. I saw the amazing stupa of Boudha lit up at night, and spending this special new year, with hundreds of pilgrims from around Tibet and China, while inhaling thick smokes of incense sticks, seeing thousands of candles lit up was a definite Losar experience. But spending the night at Boudha was extra special because i found a glimpse of enlightenment so unexpectedly.

Things really do happen for a reason. I went to Bhouda ( locals call it Bhouda, without the Nath) this day thinking it was Losar. It is but there's no big festival or some sort. Tibetans celebrate Losar for almost two weeks. I paid the taxi driver 300 rupees from Thamel to Bhouda. That is the actual fare on the 6 kilometer trip. When i arrived, it was the usual. Although i can see signs of celebration ahead, like candles being lit up, offerings being sold like corn, spices, and flowers. I re-directed my taxi driver to travel a few kilometers more to Gokharna Mahadev passing through Kopan on the way to Gokharna forest. Gokharna Mahadev is almost forgotten. If not, probably the least managed site i have visited in Nepal. I could see a few tourist structures along the perimeter but none was open, and locals have built houses on the banks of the temple. It is only in Nepal where you can see someone bathing alongside a world heritage site. This simply means, history is still part of the present and future of the local people.

When i arrived at the dusty junction. I noticed how easy it is for travelers to visit but there was none when i went. Some trekkers combine the Bhoudanath - Kopan - Gokharna Mahadev in one action-packed loop. After visiting too many Hindu temples in Nepal, i can honestly say that Gokharna Mahadev is my most favorite of all. It's built in simply structure but the details are all elaborate. This temple is dedicated to Shiva, by now my most favorite Hindu god. For someone who's not born Hindu, it is a great learning experience to visit here. I could totally understand every detail of every Ganesh, Shiva, Kali, and all the hanky panky designs of the temple.

Once i sort out my photos, i will try to post some here on this site. This temple is a photographer's dream. Every angle, there is something worthy to photograph. I've spent only three hours around here, and my taxi driver did complain a little. Apparently, the next taxi driver on shift is already waiting. Promise me that you visit Gokharna Mahadev when you have the time.

As usual, a kind Nepali boy help me find the toilet. He must be probably weirded out that i look like his neighbor yet i don't know where the loo is.

I said, things do happen for a reason. Because if i knew the correct date of Losar then i wouldn't have visited Gokharna Mahadev. I've read about this temple since last year when i first came to Nepal but i have always deprioritized it for the more popular attractions.

I miscalculated the taxi fare and bargained a 1000 rupee payment for Thamel - Gokharna Mahadev - Bhoudanath instead of 700 rupees. On the way to my destination, he passed by his son. He was playing in the streets. His mother is at work. His father is driving me. He looks like the typical Nepali boy you will see -- funny, loud, and full of life. he is playing in the same street where trucks, motorycles, cows, and locals pass by on that dusty, potholed road. I reckoned, 1000 rupees is the least i can do to make his little boy happy. I hope he received a present from his father at the end of the day.

I am still here in Patan. I chose to stay here, and forego Bhaktapur as i really think it's getting more and more chaotic there as years pass by. Also, the entrance ticket is increasing and i don't want to deal with army checkpoints anymore. I like Patan because it's much more quiet, more laidback, and the bakeries serving fresh doughnuts and croissants are so welcoming. Last night, i woke up to two Chinese nationals having sex on their room below my room. Don't ask me more about it. I am on the third floor of Cafe de Patan, in front of an old Uma Maheshwar Temple, and they're on the second floor. It makes me realize how at the end of the day, simple things make people happy -- like having sex on vacation, getting a 300 rupee taxi commission, boys playing in the busy streets on a holiday or visiting Gokharna Mahadev Temple.

This trip of mine was so good, i needed to write a second post. It's 6AM here in Patan, and i am tucked in a nice guest house by the durbar square. I have a pocket of 2 more hours before load shedding begins. I have learned to accept that good working electricity is so hard to find in Nepal. Some places are really bad with only 6 hours of electricity a day, while others are more blessed with about 16-18 hours.

Up until now, i still could not believe that this trip of mine coincided with Shivaratri. For Hindus, this is one of the biggest festivals of the year, if not the biggest. The minute i stepped in the complex, i could literally hear the loud chants of the local people. And as each step progresses approaching the ghats, the sounds become even more tantric. To be honest, the set up was an accident waiting to happen. But i feel that Shiva was there to guide me all the way.

In Hindu teachings, Shiva is both the creator and destroyer so he is worshiped by many. During the festival, i learned that this god, among others, help people to become better people. Why? People offer everything, even little things they have, because they look forward to a better future for them. In Shivaratri, I've seen the poorest people, and the most glamorous people. They both walked in the same path circling the temples and ghats. Both of them fell in line for a whopping five hours to see Shiva inside the temple. They have a purpose in life. And their intentions are pure and real. That's what makes these people -- good people. Whether it is for a new house they're building, or the passing of a loved one. Every person wants to have a good life, away from despair and hardships/troubles of life. These people are not perfect. Sometimes, what they do upsets me. But that is the reason why i love them, because they're real.

Other people may have a different view (correct view) of what Shivaratri is, but for me it is blessing people whose intentions are for the good.

I've had a lovely chat one evening at my hotel, with a Nepali man whose now living in the USA. He came back home because of his dying father who lives in Eastern Terai, and he has given me valuable history lesson of Nepal. I thank him for opening up my eyes to the world of rebellion and constitution. It appears as if his relationship with his father is strained. I can sense that every time he talks about his father, he feels really sad. His family is back home, and he is leaving them for three months. He's also manning the construction of his building in Patan (where i am now). He mentions that he may go back to the USA soon, but he hasn't made his plans yet.

I know Shiva is watching over him, and will be blessing his every move. He will stay to look after his father. And his father will get well. I have a strong feeling. It is Shiva, of course. He will.

The reason why my plans changed is because i just heard from my hotel manager here at Kathmandu City Hotel that Shivaratri is coming up in a few days. I was suppose to leave for the mountains yet again, but i reckoned a huge festival dedicated to Shiva is so hard to miss. I cannot afford to miss it, by hook or by crook.

I arrived the day before coming from a standing room only bus from Dollu to Kathmandu. I still had plenty of time to kill before the event the next day. So, i roamed around the back streets of Thamel before closing time to get amazing bargains. Tip: You shop around 8-9PM when shops are closing, and bargain to the max.

After coming from an amazing shopping spree, i went back to the hotel exhausted and hungry. Gladly, Shiva was there and we ate together an amazing Dahl Bat meal. That night, i started reading about the god Shiva and this amazing festival. I felt that in order to fully embrace the big day, one must understand the real reason why so many local people come here in the first place.

After a hearty breakfast, i arrived at Pashupatinath at noon. One cannot fathom the line going inside the Shiva Temple. It's the longest line I've ever seen in my life. News say that the line is so long, the end was near the Tribhuvam airport. So many pilgrims from India, Bhutan and other SAARC countries came to worship Shiva on his special birthday. I've been so lucky in Nepal this trip that i didn't pay the jaw-breaking entrance fee at 1000 rupees for foreigners. I just walked, and nobody asked me for a ticket. I just hope and pray that nobody from the ticket counter is reading this. Otherwise, i am dead meat.

I spent a total of five hours inside Pashupatinath, roaming around and eager to check what the locals are doing. Many people came in groups chatting, and relaxing by the different temples inside the complex. But the real stars of the day are the Sadhus and Babajis from all around Nepal and India, enjoying this day where everything is absolutely free. Think about anything a normal person cannot do, it happened. I saw a Sadhu naked, and was preaching his sermon to a crowd of kids. Over to the other side by the ghats are Sadhus and Babajis by the hundreds rolling marijuana and selling to all local people. Take note that this day is also the only day where marijuana is legal. It's feels weird that everyone was so high on the drug, while policemen are littered checking who're high enough to go home.

I met a Nepali guy from another province who bought a stick of marijuana from a Babaji for about a hundred rupee. That's 1 freakin' dollar. He wanted to share the stick with me.

Later on, i found myself amazed by the Sadhus and Babajis. One, they've all come out of their shells, and for one day they could totally enjoy themselves. They've been living their whole life meditating and praying so a day of having fun is definitely something they look forward to. I've been making circles seeing groups of local people, as young as 12 to as old as 65, all eyes super red, and obviously high. Sadhus and Babajis were high, too. Some were sleeping, others were on a different state chanting "ohm...ohm...ohm...".

I could go home early, buy my heart says to stay. I stayed long enough to have acquired all the burning marijuana, incense sticks, and fire at the nearby ghat. Walking up and down the stairs was a delight to all senses. I was squeezing myself to fit a very little space, while smelling urine, sweat, and smoke. I was touched (whether intentionally or not) at private parts. I've seen nipples, hairy balls, shit, and a puke. I have heard loud noises of babus crying, women being stepped on foot, old men and women laughing, and bells being rang by every Hindu in sight. In total, i was right with my estimate. About 1 million people came to Pashupatinath for Shivaratri. And when i left just as when sun was setting, more people came.

In my opinion, I've never seen a crowd so dedicated to their faith as the Hindu people. They are the living testament to an aged old tradition still being practiced until today.

One Babaji put an ash circle on top of my forehead, and tapped my head soon after. He's about the same age as mine, and he has already devoted his whole future to praying and meditating. Later on, another Sadhu blessed me by pinching my ears and stroking my hair. It seemed like regardless of religion, class, or belief, everyone was in the mood to pray. Everyone was there for one thing. For Shiva.

I could go on and on with my experiences, and even all the words that i could think of, will not be at par to the experience I've had. I will write more later today. I am now sitting on the couch of my lovely hotel here at Kathmandu City Hotel. I am already thinking how will i feel when i leave Nepal next week.

Oh, Shiva. You have brought all people to come and worship you. You have brought me, a non-Hindu, to Pashupatinath, and accepted me with open arms. That i will never ever forget.