PINOY BOY JOURNALS: sri lanka

Showing posts with label sri lanka. Show all posts

STORY: Yesterday, my Sri Lankan friend Amith sent me a link to click on my Facebook Messenger. It didn't look like a spam or virus message, and the link redirected me to Nas Daily. I've been following him and his 1 minute travel diaries.

"Popular international video blogger and social media influencer Nuseir Yassin, whom host Nas Daily has posted a video, praising Sri Lankans for looking after tourists who are currently stranded in Sri Lanka due to the Covid-19."

Amith was my host when i traveled to Sri Lanka in his hometown in Ella. I remember spending almost a week up in the mountains and meeting all of his friends and family. I've always said that Ella is such an underrated destination in Sri Lanka eclipsed by the more popular coastal towns. Ella has this laidback vibe and a feel of community - you know like everyone knows each other. You surely will belong right away because it doesn't take long for people to welcome you like their own family. Trust me.

I even wrote a small note for the rest of the boys.

"Prasannaupanalaka, Rathnayaka, Amith and Priyantha please tag everyone in the photo. Ella has to be one of my most favorite places in Sri Lanka. And our endless drinking sessions are memorable for me, most especially because of the awesome weather. Cheers, boys! I shall see you when the time comes. වාසනාවන්! vāsatāvan ඡය වේවා! jaya vevā"

Actually, if Wuhan Covid-19 didn't happen i would probably spend a week back in Sri Lanka Q2 of this year. My friends and I have been thinking of flying to Colombo and just travel around. Of course, i would extend my stay and see to it that i visit Ella. I guess once this pandemic is over, i have one destination to keep in mind.

I never planned on going to Mirissa. But I've never felt this good knowing i was there once, and would be going back again, in a heart beat. Mirissa is everything you could imagine a South Asian tropical retreat would be. And knowing it's only about 200 kilometers away from the equator and almost on the southern tip of Sri Lanka and the subcontinent of India, no doubt you'll never get more exotic than that.

Coming from Hikkaduwa, and with a really bad hangover from last night's drinking spree with my crew, i trooped like a soldier waiting for a bus bound for Mirissa. I didn't even bother understanding how will i get there, but i know i will. With a little friendly demeanor and just a few spare Lankan coins, i was off to paradise. I just know that it's right smacked in between Welligama and Matara, and about an hour away from Galle. That's it.

When i arrived in town, i headed towards finding a cool place to stay. I was planning to spend only half a week in the seaside beach town of Mirissa, anyway. With relatively confusing pathways heading towards the beach resorts, i walked along the beach. With feet combing down the soft sands, with my huge backpack on, and burning my skin from the heat of the day, i looked for a couple of places. There was one that seemed very cheap to stay at. It is located on the left side of the beach when you're facing the ocean. But the view was rather a bit heart-breaking. I chanced upon another resort right in the middle of the the main beach, with huge veranda and a pool but the rate was out of this world. Then, i saw one tucked a little away from the beach. It was Sira's Chalet. While there's more work to be done around the compound when i visited, the rooms were sparkling clean and comfortable. It was already ready to accept guests even if it's midway in construction. I had to call out a few times before this man came up to me. He introduced himself as Sira - the manager of the chalet, and the name behind my accommodations for almost a week. After giving me the best discount ever knowing i was traveling solo and promised that i would be tidy the whole time i will be staying, i went to my room to check in. It was an absolute lovely time at Sira's.

The rest of the days were just about enjoying the luxury of not having to worry about what i am going to do next. When you're in Mirissa, you are already promising yourself of total bliss. Because some other beaches in Sri Lanka are so commercialized, you get a mix of everything.

In Mirissa, you just have to enjoy the beach and relax. And i did just that. I would normally wake up at sunrise to eat my breakfast. Sira would be the one to cook for me. I am at my healthiest, too. I would indulge myself on fresh fruits. It was also my first time to eat wood apple. So delicious!

I would often lounge in the beach early morning, and then come back to take shade after a few hours. I would occasionally drink Lion Beer at one of the many bars along Mirissa. I would either choose buttered king prawns for lunch, and grilled sea bass for dinner. Sometimes, i would grab a burger and fries.

Apart from the many things Robin Crusoe would do, i would also walk around and talk to people. It's just my thing. I would come up to the locals, and just talk about anything under the sun. I met so many people around Mirissa that i lost count already.

More than the occasional sightings of turtles swimming by the beach, and seeing the infinite smiles of Russians enamored by the beaches of South Asia, it was the relatively calm atmosphere of Mirissa that i loved the most. The waves were a little huge when i went there, but that didn't stop me from swimming. I didn't have to go far, anyway, as the waves were just too strong. It's the feeling of getting stoked in such a tucked away place.

After spending quite an enjoyable time in Negombo, i was crazy excited to venture into the southern coast of Sri Lanka. Negombo beaches are okay but not necessarily pristine so swimming is not well-advised. Besides, the water current around Negombo is far out. I would put my feet in the sand near the water, and i would be swept by the sea in seconds. But i love Negombo with all my heart. More stories about Negombo in the coming weeks. Stay tuned.

It was a bummer that i needed to travel back from Negombo to Colombo which was around 40 kilometers. There was no way that i can hitch a ride from somewhere near my hotel in Negombo Beach Park. Heeding locals' advise, i rode a shuttle bus bound for Colombo train station. There, i booked a one way ticket heading to Hikkaduwa. It was good that it is now very easy for foreigners to travel around Sri Lanka painlessly because there's always a concierge for foreigners in transport areas, so getting to where you want to go would be hassle-free.

But i got lost. Truth be told. If you think that train schedules are only a suggestion here, you're wrong. Train arrivals and departures are almost always in time. What i did wrong was i rode a train that's around 5 minutes early thinking it would be the correct train bound for Hikkaduwa. It was 13:54 as above, a minute later, a train arrived. My actual departure was supposed to be at 14:00. A few stops after, i got out of Mt. Lavina station, and waited for another train that would pass by Hikkaduwa. Relatively clueless, i felt relieved that locals were there to help me get to my destination. They were the ones who advised me to get out at Mt. Lavina as more trains stop by there.

From hereon, it was easy breezy waiting for the train to arrive. Mt. Lavina is a very popular tourist destination. With countless number of hotels and resorts, most tourists stay here as party scene is quite a big thing for Mt. Lavina fans.

A few minutes later, my train arrived. It was jam-packed to the core. I knew of busy trains in India, and i've experienced them, too. I also know that a line will always be broken in Nepal. But my God, the train i rode was beyond belief. I found myself terribly amused that i used my backpack to sit softly as the train glides on winding train tracks. An hour in the trip, i got to stand near the train doors. It is here that i experienced you don't have to move a muscle to actually move. I've known of these essential experiences in Sri Lanka and how beautiful the scenery is if you're near the windows. The coast of southern Sri Lanka is breath taking. With a smile, i made new friends on the 3 hour standing room only trip. Two friends were also on the same wrong train i rode. Ironically, they also made a wrong decision. They're both from Galle. One is a corporate sales man and the other one is a military man. The third man, was someone they met on the train. Making friends in Sri Lanka is so easy.

The chat became more engaging when i opened up about the Tamil Tigers - the radical group behind terrorist attacks in far flung areas around Jaffna and Northern Sri Lanka. The military guy lowered his voice, whispered a bit and told me not to be too loud when speaking about these armed groups. Of course, i followed. He told me that the days of Tamil Tigers are over, and only a handful of them live but far from villages and reside in the mountains. There's no more threat. This man is the real deal. He fought with them in the late 90's when their numbers were almost zero. He's now on vacation, coming back to his family in Galle.

Suddenly, the trip became less nauseous for me amidst the fact that i was almost sharing a breath with a man whose selling snacks, and a grand daddy whose wearing a traditional western Sri Lankan costume. There were only a few women riding the trains, and most of them are actually seated. Men offer their seats to women, and the elderly which is never the case in India.

The trip was very long. I never expected the 100 kilometer journey to be that painstaking. Although, it was very nice that i chose to ride the train as i was able to watch the coast change, and the sun begin to set.

My friends bid me goodbye, and even if i wanted to get their numbers to personally thank them, i can't. My hands were tied somewhere that moving a bit would cause a commotion to other passengers. It was that jam-packed. If only i knew earlier that saying Have a Good Journey or Bon Voyage would be, සුභ ගමනක් වෙවා subha gamanak vēvā, then my cool meter would go up.

I arrived in Hikkaduwa safely. It was my first real road trip in Sri Lanka, and one of the many instances where i felt really extremely happy to be finally traveling to my other favorite country in the world. When i saw the ocean, the long day travel was nothing. Ha.

A family of Toque Macaque in Dambulla

STORY: Monkeys often elude me. It must have been the movie Outbreak that shifted my worldly view of this primate. I've experienced many unfortunate incidents with Monkeys.

In Batu Caves of Gombak District in Malaysia, i was attacked by a dozen of them. All eyes were on my ice cold can of soft drinks. It was one o'clock in the afternoon then. The heat was exhausting, and i assume the monkeys have not had their lunch break. I threw my almost full drink in desperation. It's enough that i climbed up to 272 steps only to find out there are more of them inside the cave.

A lone Macaque in one of the steps to Dambulla Cave Complex

In Ella of Uva Province in Sri Lanka, i seeked the help of a bystander to help me out get rid of a troop along the highway. Instead of riding the bus up and down the infamous highway, i decided to walk that day. It was a grueling and tiring walk but i managed like a pro. Halfway my climb up, i saw these wild creatures roaming around the trek point. Some where doing stunt tricks in the branches of the trees, others were simply people watching. It didn't help that i stumbled upon an angry dog with half of a monkey's body in his throat. I am not a fan of wild animals but right then, who am i to complain. I am visiting their territory. I am but a nobody. The man who was busy conversing on his mobile phone, pressed the dial tone and said goodbye to his girlfriend, got out of his car and accompanied me till i pass by the monkey corner. He waved his hands as a sign that i'm safe.

But the real story here is about the family of monkeys in Dambulla of Matale District in the Central Province of Sri Lanka. As you climb up the tiring cave temple, you will see hundreds of them hanging around like little villagers. Later i found out that these breed of monkeys are called Toque Macaque, "Rilewa" in Singhala, and are endemic to Sri Lanka and more importantly, are currently endangered.

Again, my fear grew as i try to avoid any contact within 50 meters, which is impossible considering there is only one route up and down. After two hours of praying and meditating on top, i was ready for more passive aggressive encounter. When i saw this family on one corner, my ultimate view shifted 180 degrees. It's not everyday that you get a more personal and intimate interaction with Macaques in the wild. Much more, when you see a complete family. This may sound too shallow but indeed, I've never felt more safe than with them. They are the most gentle monkeys I've ever encountered. They are simply at peace. I was unbelievably surprised. People take photographs, like myself. Some where even too close, the little animals had to run away in fear. Everyone was so happy to see these monkeys.

A Grey "Hanuman" Langur runs in style in Polannaruwa

I left after three days, and found myself in Polannaruwa in front of one of the greatest Buddhist structures of the world. There were a handful of the similar kind of monkeys but different. These are called Grey "Hanuman" Langur and are believed to be incarnations of Hindu monkey god, Hanuman. I found myself in a little corner, sat and watched in admiration these beautiful species. These type are graceful, with pale gray coat, dark face and long eyelashes. Along came three after a few minutes and sat beside me. I didn't move a muscle out of fear, i looked at them, and we were eye to eye. I am home with my new found friends.

TIPS: Avoid close contact with monkeys in the wild. If they feel threatened or annoyed, you're in bad luck. Never eat in front of them or show food in their presence. They are absolutely sensitive to odor, noise and/or shiny objects. Be friendly.

RECOMMENDATIONS: In case of a monkey attack, throw your food in their direction right away. Get away as far as possible. If you don't have food, open your hands to show you don't have one. Put a barrier between you and the monkey to avoid physical contact.